Wednesday, April 27, 2011

Reader Request: Eye Shadow Application, Part II

Dear Anonymous Eye Shadow Novice:  Here's the more relevant portion of the tutorial you requested =)

Today I'll show you a smoky eye with an intensely detailed process.  After this post, all my looks will include a step-by-step guide, but probably without the painstaking detail that this post has.  It would just get too long and I don't think anyone wants me to ramble like that.

Please do take into consideration your own eye shape and skin tone when adapting placement and choosing colours!  I have a fairly average eye so I hope it'll be relevant for most of you!  If not, refer back to this post or send me a photo and I can try to guess what changes you can make!

PS:  I don't usually do a typical black smoky eye so I highly encourage you to use fun colours!  Nothing gets me going like purple or copper =)!

  1. Prime the lid with GOSH Velvet Touch Eye Primer
    I use the tiniest dab and it's usually enough for both lids.  I use my fingers to smooth it all over - from my lashline to my brow and underneath the eye.  I've used a concealer brush for this before, but it's just faster and more even with my fingers.

  2. Highlight your browbone with MAC Brule
    I use my shader brush to sweep the colour from my crease to my brow bone, just to help even out the colour and give my brows a little lift.

  3. Wash out your lid with a medium gray (from the BH Cosmetics 120 Palette)
    I packed the colour onto my brush and patted it onto the middle of my lid, working outwards.  I tend to go towards the outer corner of my eye and then the inner corner so the colour will be more concentrated on the outside of my eye than the inside.

  4. Define your crease with that same gray
    I pick up much more colour and push it directly into my crease.  Then I use the tip of my brush to blend the colour onto my lid and slightly above the crease.  I usually lean back in my mirror and do a quick windshield wiper motion to find my crease, then fill it in with quick back and forth strokes, but some people prefer little circular motions, pressing their brushes into their sockets, whatever works.  I also like defining my crease all the way into the inner corner, but for less drama, take it in about halfway

  5. Shade in your outer V with a black shadow (also from the BH Cosmetics 120 Palette)
    The Outer V can mean a number of different things for different people.  For me, it means going above the crease colour to the middle of my eye and shading in just the outer third of my lower lashline.  For some people, I've wrapped their outer V around their eyes; others, around their crease colour and along their upper lashline.  I just pick up the colour with the tip of my brush and literally colour in the area I want.
    The yellow is just to show you where the lid/crease colour goes - I'm actually putting the colour where you see the orange colour - I had to use a darker orange than in the other photos so it would stand out against the yellow.
     Notice at this point I haven't blended any colours together.  Usually when I place new colours on, they have a tendency to blend on their own.  If I'm doing a really bright look, I have to take extra care to make sure the colours don't blend.

  6. Highlight your lid with a light shimmery gold
    I use my index finger to pick up colour and very roughly pat it on the centre of my lid.

  7. Shade in your lower lashline with the gray you used on your lids
    I bring the colour along the entire inner 2/3 of my lower lashline.

  8. Tightline with Maybelline Gel Liner
    You could also line your upper lashline as normal, but I don't.  My lid doesn't fold in that much at the bottom so whatever liner I do put on looks really, really thick and this look is so dramatic I don't think it needs that extra heaviness. I use an angle brush for this.

  9. Line your waterline with Maybelline Gel Liner
    Completely an optional step - some people just don't like having their waterline filled in!  But if you do, I find black to be more dramatic and white to be more editorial and bright.  Your eye shape also plays a huge factor in terms of how the waterline will look after it's coloured.   I end up using the same angle brush I used for my waterline.

  10. Curl your lashes and apply mascara


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  2. beautiful! thank you!